Vegan Travel in the Greek Islands
Vegan Travel in the Greek
Islands
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Contents
Introduction
Cuisine
Vendors
Dishes
Islands
Glossary
Links
Books
Feedback
Introduction
The Greek Islands have a well-deserved reputation for their
beauty, history, myths, beaches and architecture. But how easy is it for
vegan travellers to visit?
Standard travel literature gives a confusing picture of the
comfort of vegan travellers in Greece, from 'almost impossible' to 'no
problem'. Just as confusingly, Greeks eat more meat than any other
Europeans, but on the other hand, eat more vegetables than other
Europeans too.
This guide is intended to assure you that the Greek Islands make
a great vegan travel destination, and to give some practical guidance on
eating there.
N.B.Since some of the information in this guide was
gathered (from September 2000 onwards), Greece has replaced the Drachma
with the Euro. The official conversion rate was 340.75 drachma to 1
Euro; however, vendors everywhere have taken opportunity to "round-up"
their converted rates.
Cuisine
Like many other Mediterranean cuisines, there is a tradition of
small dishes, eaten individually as appetizers or with drinks (as
Spanish tapas), or collectively as a meal in their own right. Greece's
past under Ottoman Turkish colonial rule gives it much in common with
Turkish, Arab and Levantine cooking.
For vegans, its the small dishes (mezedhes) which make
travel here not just possible, but positively enjoyable. Whilst there
are some traditional vegan dishes served as main courses
(entreés), and certain dishes can appear as either, the easiest
way to eat vegan, and eat well, is to assemble a meal from the
collection of mezedhes on offer.
As in many Southern European countries, there's little public
vegetarianism, veganism or general concern for animal welfare - with the
possible exception of cats. Meat-eating is still firmly associated with
wealth, celebration and manliness. On the other hand, many islands have
only recently emerged from centuries of poverty and reliance on limited
island produce, which have limited the consumption of animal products to
the rich or to special feast days. This informal vegan tradition is
supplemented by the Greek Orthodox Lent, when for 40 days before Easter
the faithful abstain from all animal products - with the possible
exclusion of some 'border-line' animals such as octopus. This practice,
however, doesn't change one iota the Greek assumption that meat and
dairy are essential for human existence, though. saying that you are nistevo
("I am fasting") should make it easier for Greeks to comprehend you.
All of this means that the 'infrastructure' for vegan eating is
well in place, even if people there are not familiar with the terms or
can comprehend the political or ethical basis for doing so. Also, you
will be enjoying many of the traditional island delicacies overlooked by
carnivorous tourists.
The Daily Eating Timetable
Greeks are not traditionally big on breakfasts, (which might come
as a surprise if you've walked round Naxos or Ios, where cafes tend to
advertise breakfasts more than anything else), but do like to make up
for it later on, between 1pm and siesta time for lunch, and after 9pm
for dinner, with a trip to the patisserie afterwards to round off the
day.
Liquids
Unfortunately, Greeks don't share the passion of their Italian
cousins for good coffee. Most coffee served is instant (in fact Nes
cafe, sometimes shortened to just nes can now be considered a
native Greek term), and the traditional style is a muddy unfiltered
brew. Italian style coffee bars and equipment are present in fashionable
places; as yet, the Starbucks empire has not appeared here.
For beer, the Dutch Amstel has almost as strong a grip on
the beer market as Nescafé has on the instant coffee market. It's
a decent if unremarkable brew, although can approach nectar when chilled
on a hot day! Heineken and Alfa are almost as ubiquitous.
However, there's now a Greek-made beer, Mythos, lighter and
slightly sweeter, that's caught up hugely since being launched in 1997.
In places such as Crete and Naxos, where German tourism is high, expect
to see Warsteiner, Paulaner and Erdinger. Style
bars in Heraklion (Crete) can serve the locals such vegan beery delights
as Chimay and Hoegaarden.
Retsina and ouzo are the best known of Greek wines
and spirits, and both can be acquired tastes (and opinions vary sharply
as to whether they are worth acquiring). House wines (aka 'open' wine)
are usually passable; better restaurants will have Chilean or Australian
wines on offer, some even have the excellent Greek (and both organic and
vegan) white Spiropoulous. Some shops will dispense wine from a
barrel into any sort of container - a recycled Coca-Cola bottle is
typical; these are very cheap, but have a taste test first - they can
also be very bad. A good alternative to the raw aniseed power of ouzo is
the subtler citron liqueur produced solely on Naxos. Both Naxos
and Thira are fertile enough to be significant wine producers; if
buying on Thira (Santorini), consider supporting Santos, the
local producer co-operative near the top of the port road.
Food Fatigue
Greek food has lots of variety, even for vegans. However, its not
uncommon for visitors to get tired of it after a couple of weeks -
especially if they're not used to large helpings of olive oil, or have
to rely on stuffed tomatoes every day.
The more popular islands have Mexican, Chinese and Indian
restaurants - Crete even has McDonalds, although this is unlikely to
provide an alternative taste experience for vegans. However, given both
the relative homogeneity of Greek demography, and the local laws which
make it very difficult (despite the facade of an EU open market) for
non-Greeks to operate business on the island, it's difficult to find
authentic ethnic cuisine. What Greek does, however, have to its
advantage is a mobile population, many of whom have relatives in London,
Sydney and New York, have experience of other cultures, and can open
Mexican restaurants or Italian cafés as well as any Australian or
American.
Self-catering can be difficult on the small islands, where shops
are few and poorly-stocked. On larger islands, and especially lush one
such as Naxos, good produce choices at greengrocers make cooking for
yourself feasible. Foresighted vegans will have some nutritional yeast
and marmite packed somewhere in their rucksacks.
Lookout for farms participating in the EU's Agritourismo
scheme which subsidises land purchases for farmers who will manage the
land organically for the benefit of tourism.
Vendors
Establishments
Taverna
The most common form of establishment. Despite its name, the
focus is usually on food rather than beer, especially where tourists
are the main customers. Menus can be as extensive as a full
restaurant.
Estiatorio
Step up from a taverna, modelling itself on a Western
restaurant.
Kafeneia
Old style working men's cafe
Gyros / Souvlakia
The typical hole-in-the-wall kebab shop, specializing in gyros
(slices off the large rotating amalgam of dead flesh) and souvlakia,
the greek version of kebab. Some will also sell falafel and tost
(toasted half-baguette)
Zaharoplasteia
Pastry shop, often selling both sweet and savoury pies, plus
confectionery and bread.
Caveats
Especially in tavernas, what is available and what is on the menu
can be two quite different things. Not only may certain dishes which are
on the menu not be available (because of seasonality, or day of week, or
limited kitchens), but there can be daily specials which don't appear
there at all. It's always worth asking what's available on the day.
Whilst some establishments seem to have no difficulty serving
anything from the menu, it's probably a good sign when they can't -
although it might offend your culturally ingrained expectations of
service, it's better for you if a taverna has 3 or 4 dishes freshly
made, than to be microwaving to order 20 or so.
Dishes
Major Categories
Simple Salads
Cucumber, tomato, beetroot, wild greens, olives
Mixed Salad
'Greek' salad, tomato and cucumber
Simple Fried
Zucchini, zucchini flowers, pepper, aubergine - between
tempura & deepfried
Fried Balls
zucchini, tomatoes, chickpeas (falafel)
Stuffed
Aubergines, tomatoes, peppers
Baked
imam, briam, chickpeas, artichokes, gigantes
Puree
skordia, fava, hoummous
Variations
Methods of cooking, and names of dishes, vary around the islands
- partly as a result of tradition, partly a reaction to tourist demands,
and partly due to varying levels of quality. For vegans, this means that
for at least some dishes, you will have to check with each restaurant
for the ingredients used.
Many variations are caused by the widespread availability of milk
imported from the mainland, and of mass-produced cartons of mayonnaise,
salad cream and bechamel sauce. In times gone by, mixing aubergine
(eggplant) puree with bechamel would have been a bizarre act of
ostentation; however, factory production and EU subsidies mean that the
economics (together with package tourist tastes) are now in favour of
adulterating the flavour of pure vegetables in this way. In addition to
the aubergine dip, enquire whether your skordalia will be made
just with mashed potatoes and garlic, or with soft cheese/bechamel added
in. Some Greek cooks think eggs an essential binder for falafel,
others can make them happily without - you're choice to enquire, trust,
guess or abstain.
Standbys
The following are generally available- gigantes
(butterbeans in tomato sauce), yemista (rice stuffed tomatoes or
peppers), fried zucchini and aubergine, salads, olives, briam
(cubed aubergine or zucchini with potatoes in the oven) and imam
(aubergine, tomato and onion baked).
Rarities
Despite the expectations of many tourists, hoummous is
rarely seen on menus. Other things to grab whenever you see them are
fried zucchini flowers (commonly seen attached to the end of zucchinis
in greengrocers, but very rarely on a menu), leeks, artichokes and baked
chickpeas.
Island Guide
Crete
Heraklion (Iraklio)
There's a constant stream of tourists coming through Heraklion
year-round, although for most it's simply a stopping place for Knossos
or airport. However, the town is also a populous and prosperous place in
its own right. Hence, although there are some tourist restaurants
(complete with picture book menus, touting waiters and mediocre food) in
the two main squares, most of the towns establishments cater for local
people, with lots of stylish cafes for the young and fashionable.
Chilis Modern and fashionable Mexican
restaurant in an old mansion on Grevenon near the shore. Home-made
guacamole, rajas, refried beans and nachos. Staff are helpful in making
main dishes without cheese or sour cream. Service can be variable when
soccer is on the TV, but main drawback is very heavy salt usage on
dishes.
E Paralia Traditional ouzeri and taverna with
tourist annex on the waterfront near the old port. Open all day, with
the usual choice of mezedhes, but cooked particularly well and without
too much oil. Individual salad or fried vegetables are served with
skordia (mashed potato and garlic). The fried zucchini is outstanding.
Ippocampus Was next door to E Paralia
but now closed down (as of Aug 2002).
Gemistkou Located in a small alley just off
the main market on 1866 street. One of the largest selection of veggie
mezedhes you'll find anywhere. The artichokes, cooked with potatoes and
dill, are especially good.
Giovanni Upmarket Italian restaurant, with
organic vegetables. Only 2 vegan dishes available - salad & stuffed
vegetables. Expensive cover charge includes chicory & mussel salad
to start, plus sweet cherries & good lemon ouzou to finish. Meal
for 2 around 15000 drachma.
North
Avdou
Villas Organic farm 30km inland from Heraklion, with self-catering
villas and a tavern with vegetarian and non-vegetarian menus, plus
therapy, alternative medicine and Cretan cuisine courses.
South
Yoga
Plus at Agios Pavlos offer yoga courses, with accomodation and
vegetarian / vegan / macrobiotic food.
West
The
Green Terrace vegan and vegetarian B&B on the Drapanos peninsula,
30 minutes outside Chania. Run by an English couple, and also offers
evening meals. Opens 2004
Third Eye Vegetarian restaurant in Paleochora, run
by a well-travelled local who interprets food from the the rest of the
world in a Cretan style with local herbs. Open every day, for lunch and
evening dinner. Cheap and good quality, but busy and vegan options
unknown.
Cyclades
Folegrandos
Folegrandos has irregular ferry connections, no airport and only
300 citizens. The lack of package hotels and daytrippers makes for a
healthy restaurant scene with good choice and quality. Combined with a
splendid old clifftop Hora (with medieval kastro), quiet beaches and
good walks, this is one of the best of all the islands.
Angali Beach
Little beach reached by a 1.5km walk from a bus stop halfway
between Ano Meria and Hora, or by beach caique from the port. Several
taverna - the one at the top of the steps on the north (right-hand)
side of the beach has good veggie mezedhes - ask for the daily specials
which are not on the menu.
Hora
To Sik On the second of the central squares.
Good veg mezedhes, including large collection of dips -
hoummous,aubergine, zucchini, olive, pepper - all of which are made
pure - i.e. without the yoghurt, salad cream, mayo or bechamel
with which dips tend to be adulterated elsewhere. Also reasonable vegan
main courses.
Nikos 'Turbo Service' On the main square next
to the kastro. Service is wise-cracking in addition to turbo. Has
library of second hand books, wide selection of well cooked veggie
mezedhes, and more unusually several Greek versions of Italian bruschetta
plus grilled versions of the usual fried vegetables.
Pounta At the bus stop at the entrance to the
Hora. Excellent veggie mezedhes and salads. Especially good are their
zucchini balls, in the style of Swiss Rosti. Eat on street, or in shady
back garden.
Karavostasis (Port)
There are several taverna here, with the first on the right as
you come off the ferry being recommended. Usual selection of veg
mezdhes, with good presentation and above-average gigantes.
Naxos
Apollonas
Small port at top end of island. Popular day trip from Hora - one
bus goes out via spectacular coastal route, and another local bus
returns through lush central valleys. Half-dozen tavernas on waterfront
with average selections and food (more focus on seafood as can be
expected).
Hora
Naxos is becoming almost as big a party town now as Ios in high
season. Consequently the waterfront is now very commercialized (although
the alleys behind are still peaceful) and the quality of food is in
general poor. A few restaurants in the old town serve the more
discerning and better-off tourists.
Delfini Previously known as O Kafenes,
below the SW kastro wall. Indian / Thai dishes and the best bar menu in
the isles. Food is Asian from a Greek perspective - the garlic naan are
neither garlic nor naans, but simply local baked flat-bread; Greek
cooks are experts with herbs but learners with spices, so the Indian
food comes across as tomato sauce with raw spices mixed in. Not open
for lunch out of main July / August season. Best feature - the
first-class malt whiskies, expensive (2200 drachma for Lagavulin,
1600 for Talisker and others) but served in giant measures.
East West Located round the corner from
Picasso, serving range of Asian food. Only one vegetarian option -
vegetable stir fry.
Picasso Recently moved to the main square
(Plateia Protodikiou, 250m S of kastro). Fashionable Mexican
restaurant, with good guacamole and salsas. Helpful service, willing to
make main dishes without cheese or sour cream, although tortilla based
dishes served more like pizzas than in traditional Mexican fashion.
Also run book exchange. Best feature - cheap and excellent German beer:
Erdinger served in proper glasses for 1000 drachma per half litre.
Paros
Paros is both a major summer party destination and the
cross-roads of Cycladic ferry connections, so will be unpleasantly busy
in July/August and is able to support lots of mediocre tourist
restaurants.
Parikia (Hora)
Aligaria Restaurant round the back of Hotel
"Kontes" near the town square. Veggie platter for 2200dr and
eggplant salad for 800dr with good choice of mezes and helpful staff.
Black White Greek / Italian restaurant on the
beach below the kastro. Several vegan pasta choices, although food
quality can be very variable (like pasta with garlic, oil and chilli
which came burnt and without garlic, oil or chilli!).
Cafe Archipelago Opposite the Church of a
Hundred Doors. Friendly service, helpful with cheese avoidance.
Especially recommended are the zucchini balls and aubergine a
l'archipelago (without the cheese).
Happy CowIronically named, it takes the
'Gap'approach to veggie cooking - everything in cheese. The
mezedhes which survive the dairy assault are more chip shop than greek,
encased in thick batter in the style of 'West of Scotland Heart Attack
Diet' not healthy Mediterranean. Disappointing. Best points - one of
the few places to serve hoummous, and to have heard of vegans (or at
least of 'vegas'!)
Rhythm On the ring road, next to Ford garage
and near Irish bars. Wide selection of veg mez.
Amoras/AromasAt the end of the beach near the
windmills and Scandinavian/Australian nightclubs, a block or two
inland. Serves lots of vegetarian dishes, and several vegan ones. Staff
very helpful and willing to tailor dishes for vegan requirements - to
the extent of planning ahead and putting new vegan dishes on the menu
for loyal vegan customers.
Non-Greek Parikia has a Mexican (on Livadia
Beach) and a Chinese (below the kastro), in addition to many Italian
and pizza places.
Beer Down by the yacht marina, the
supermarket stocks such excellent beers as Budvar and Hoegaarden's
Forbidden Fruit at good prices.
Sifnos
Island specialities
Revithia (chickpeas in oven), often available only on
Sundays, and usually indistinguishable from Chickpea Soup on some menus.
Other local specials include the horta (boiled greens) and pseftekeftedhes
(chickpea balls, like falafel).
Apollonia (Hora)
Hotel Sifnos Serve local specials such as
chickpea balls and boiled greens, though you may have to wait for a
Sunday evening for the revithia. Usually around half the menu entries
will be available, although what is available is cooked well.
Apostoli tou KoutoukiMediocre vegetarian fare
Faros
9 Muses Good choice of vegetable mezedhes.
Recommend the Chickpea soup and peperonata. Also have rooms available.
Dutch proprietor. Tel 71455
Kamares (Port)
O Simos Large choice of veg mezedhes
(although only a few available at any one time) and friendly service.
Thira (Santorini)
Island specialities
Capers, caper leaves, fava, chickpea balls, tomato balls,
chickpea soup and baby tomato soup.
A zaharoplasteia in the street just E of the main square
sells local fava, caper leaves and some truly awful organic wine (800
drachma per kilo from the barrel).
Fira
Lucky's Fast food joint on south of Fira's
main square; cheap falafel.
Poldo In an alley just north of the National
Bank of Greece in the warren of streets between the main square and
cliff-edge. Traditional hole-in-the-wall gyros bar, but unusually with
a vegetarian selection - soya burgers, domatokeftedes, falafel,
hoummous, tabbouleh.
Poseidon Located next to the main bus
station. Large vegetable mezedhes selection, variable service, possible
meat stock in soups.
Non-Greek Fira town has a Chinese restaurant;
both Oia and Fira have many Italian and pizza restaurants.
Dodecanese
Leros
Small island, an arduous 3 hour boat ride from Kos. Traditional
island, catering mainly for tourists from the Greek mainland, and hence
few English-speaking waiters and poor English descriptions on menus. As
a consequence, supermarkets are better than on most small islands, the
restaurants have all the traditional Greek vegan dishes and there are no
English lager louts.
Alinta
On the beach front look for the restaurant with a couple of ducks
waddling round - the owner speaks excellent English (possibly with an
understanding of 'vegan' too) and has a better veggie selection than
usual.
Laki
Has a real supermarket for real people (as opposed to the tourist type
of shop found in resorts) with lots of vegan goods.
Rhodes (Rodos)
Dodecanese island close to the Turkish mainland port of Bodrum.
Grand old architecture from its past as a Crusader Knight stronghold.
Now a major package tourist destination
Lindos
Most restaurants here have a veggie section to the menu, although not
much of this appeared to be vegan.
Pefkos
Couple of miles from the more famous Lindos. Supermarkets are basic but
had a large variety of Greek vegan food. Restaurants here are mainly
'grills' and focussed heavily on serving thickly sliced dead animals. An
exception is the Coliseum on the main street, with several vegan
starters and English staff who are happy to adapt any other dishes on
the menu.
Rhodes
Tourist-spoiled, and problematic not just for vegans, but for
vegetarians too. Rude waiters and shops selling fur coats on every
corner complete the picture.
Ionian
Zante
Ionian island which is a major package destination, especially
for English tourists. Special note to beach tourists - please
avoid the beaches used by turtle for breeding: Zante is the last
Mediterranean refuge of the loggerhead turtle and uncontrolled
development is threatening their existence; even the presence of
tourists on a beach can prevent their activity, but beach umbrellas
impaling their eggs are disastrous.
Laganas
The main tourist town and full of British lager louts. Supermarkets
stock English food (expect Heinz Beans and Kellogg's Cornflakes), and
lots of tinned Greek food such as olives, dolmades and butter beans.
Limited range of fresh fruit and veggies available. Restaurants
uninspiring, largely selling English dishes i.e. hardly anything vegan.
There is a good jacket potato cafe on the main street about 400 yards
from the beach. Quite incredibly, there is also a vegetarian restaurant
on the edge of town, just off the main street (about 15/20 minutes walk
from the beach) - it has plenty of vegan options and staff were very
helpful.
Glossary
Aginares
Artichokes (a Greek variety of Globe rather than Jerusalem)
Briam
Baked cubes of potato and aubergine or zucchini, in olive oil
Dolmades
Vine leaves, usually stuffed with rice
Domata
Tomato
Domatokeftedes
Deep fried chopped tomato 'meatballs', speciality of Thira
Fakes
Lentil dhal
Fasolia
Haricot beans
Fasolada
Bean soup
Fasolakia
Green (french) beans, usually served in tomato sauce
Fava
Mashed yellow split peas in olive oil
Gigantes
Butter (lima) beans in tomato sauce
Horta
Wild greens, usually boiled and served with a little oil, and
sometimes pinenuts.
Imam
Aubergine stuffed with tomato and onion
Kolokithakia
Zucchini, courgettes, baby marrow. Served on its own shallow
or deep fried, or grated into balls.
Koukia
Broad beans
Mavromatika
Black beans, usually served cooked with chopped onion in
olive oil
Melitzanes
Aubergine, eggplant.
Pandzaria
Beetroot, usually served with a little vinegar or olive oil.
Radikia
Dandelion salad
Revithia
Chickpeas. Often served baked with olive oil and rosemary
Revithokeftedes
Mashed chickpea and herb balls, like falafel, specialities on
Sifnos, Folegrandos and Thira
Skordalia
Garlic Sauce - can be based on mashed potato, or soft
cheese/bechamel
Skordo
Garlic
Spanaki
Spinach
Yemista
Vegetables, usually tomatoes or peppers, stuffed with rice
Links
www.greekislandhopping.net
Companion site to the book Independent Traveller's Greek Island
Hopping, the best guide to the ferry side of travel, with some useful
town maps, sightseeing and accommodation information
Greek
Ministry of Culture
Glasgow
Vegan Network - homesite for this guide
Greece - International Vegetarian Union
Vegan
Society
Vegan
Village Excellent UK vegan directory
Greek Vegan Recipes and History
Greek Recipes at Kate's excellent vegan cookery
site
Books
 
Feedback
Have any comments or questions on this guide? If so, contact me (=jey) and I'll do my best to
reply.
I'd be especially grateful to receive your own recommendations,
reviews and advice. These will be incorporated in the guide, to keep it
fresh and as helpful as possible. Thanks to Perikles Tembelis, Geoff,
Richard, Stephen, James and Jennifer for their contributions.
Last Update: 8th November 2003
Copyright © 2000-2003, J R Burrows
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