| Raíces Mexicanas-The Russian Molokans in MéxicoHistory of Mexican PeoplesThese pages are sponsoredbyInstituto Cultural "RaicesMexicanas"5290 Overpass Rd. Ste. 38Santa Barbara, CA 93111(805) 683-3036 Fax 805) 683-1418e-mail david@rojas.comMEXICAN VISTASBy JAMES CLIFFORD SAFLEYEDITOR OF THE SAN DIEGOUNION UNION-TRIBUNE PUBLISHING CO. SAN DIEGO CALIF. 1952Mexico's Russian ColonyIn ancient Armenia, about eighty miles northwestof 16,925 foot Mt. Ararat, on which, according to Holy Writ, Noah's Arkrested after the deluge of forty days and forty nights, lies the city ofKars. This territory, south of the towering CaucasusMountains, for ages has been the pawn of warring nations. Even in the presentcentury, it has been Russian soil and now is a part of Turkey. In Kars were a people who loved peace and whodetested war. Yet they long had been plagued by wars, which took from themtheir menfolk, many of whom fell in the line of battle. And their landshad been laid waste, only to be rebuilt, and to become impoverished again.This had been the story for countless generations. These people bore the name of Molokans, whichmeans milkeaters. True enough, they made cheese, and were fond of it. Whethertheir name thus originated remains in obscurity. The Molokans were Christians,but they were not members of the old Russian Orthodox Church. The Biblewas their guide and their religion was known as that of the Molokan Church.These intensely religious people prayed to God that they might be deliveredfrom further warfare and somewhere in the world find a refuge where theycould reside in quietude and simplicity, cultivate the soil and live incontentment. It was in 1905, near the dose of the Russo-JapaneseWar, that the Molokans received permission from the government of NicholasII, czar of all the Russias, to leave the land of their birth and migrateto some far corner of the earth. So, like the dove that Noah sent fromthe Ark as the waters abated, these people sent forth three of their numberon a voyage of exploration to the New World, to determine where a suitableplace for colonization could be found, and in due course to report backto the homefolk. In Los Angeles, the trio met a banker, whoinformed them that a large tract of land, owned by the bank in the GuadalupeValley of Baja California, could be purchased and on easy terms. The threeadvance men inspected the property, found it suitable, and reported totheir people in far-off Kars. They accepted the offer, the deal was closed,and 200 Russian men, women and children said goodbye forever to their homeland,to its wars and persecutions, to its troubles and sorrows, and removedto the beautiful valley, first settled seventy years before by the Dominicanfriars, who had established a mission there. The valley, fifteen milesinland from the Pacific Ocean, is reached by a road that leaves the CoastHighway about fifteen miles north of Ensenada. "We have not made much money here, but we havelived in peace and comfort," said Basili C. Bibayoff, a bearded patriarchof seventy years, who related the story of the plight in Russia and themigration to Mexico. Bibayoff, though, did not locate immediately at Guadalupe.He remained nine years in Los Angeles and went to Guadalupe in 1914. Although the colony originally numbered 200and there normally would have been a natural increase in population, thevillage now consists of only about 100 persons, comprising twenty fivefamilies. Many of the younger generation have left for the United States,or for other places in Mexico, in the belief that better opportunitiesexist elsewhere than in the beautiful Guadalupe Valley. And besides, thelittle graveyard on a hillside gives mute evidence of death's inroads onthe settlers. After the greater part of the interview withBibayoff had been conducted through an interpreter, who conversed withhim in Russian and Spanish, the patriarch started to talk in English. "So you speak English as well as Russian andSpanish," his interviewer remarked. "Yes," he answered, "and I speak Turkish, also." So here, in a remote part of Mexico, wasa farmer clad in overalls, who was a linguist, speaking four languages.That in itself is no small accomplishment. The colony gives the impression of a tiny partof the Old World transplanted to the New. The dwellings mostly face a singlestreet, about a mile long. The houses are generously spaced, allowing forlarge yards which are fenced, usually with woven wire. A few houses areon side streets. Each place has a garden patch. The one-story dwellingsare built of adobe or wood and the newer houses are faced with stucco. While the farming lands lie outside the village,at virtually every homestead is a windmill that pumps water for householduse and for the domestic animals and gardens. Much of the agriculturalland consists of vineyards. Some wheat is raised and cheese is made formarket. The only business establishment is a smallstore.- There is neither a hotel nor a restaurant, nor is there a cantinain the village. A traveler who is hungry or who is overtaken by night-fall in Guadalupe, would be dependent upon the hospitality of householdersfor food and lodging. The wants of these people are few and they are suppliedto a remarkable extent by the farms they cultivate. The women cling to the Russian type of bread,which they bake in large round loaves in ovens made of brick. Some of theovens are outdoors, others inside the houses. While the dwellings are plainand the furnishings simple, the interiors are immaculate, for cleanlinessis a virtue of these people. Kerosene lamps are used for illumination atnight. The everyday garb is similar to that of farmfolk in the United States--the men in dark shirts and overalls, the womenin plain cotton dresses. On Sundays, however, many of the women and girlsare attired in the colorful frocks characteristic of that district in Russiafrom which the early settlers came. The older men wear full beards, butthe younger men are clean shaven. They are honest, hard-working, frugal, peaceful,Godfearing people, who have been through numerous hardships and who donot expect rewards except those that come from toil. Simplicity is thekeynote of their lives. They are friendly to visitors. They freely offeredinformation on the history of the colony and the ideals for which theystrive, and invited the visitors to return. These people are not sympatheticwith the Communist regime in Russia. With a Christian religion not linked with anydenomination, they have a new church, the exterior of which resembles adwelling. The clergyman serves without pay. Sunday is a big day for thecolonists. Dressed in their go-to-meeting clothes, they assemble for anhour or more of religious services, after which they adjourn to a sortof town meeting, in which the problems of the colony are freely discussedand solutions reached. This meeting often lasts for hours. Members whose conduct has not been in accordwith the strict self-imposed rules of the colony are called to accountin open session and commanded to mend their ways. And, under the watchfuleyes of a small community joined in bonds of righteousness and peace, feware those who dare stray from the straight and narrow path and escape detection. Once each year, Justice Day is observed, whenthose who have trespassed upon their fellow colonists are forgiven anda fresh start is made by all. The colonists are avowed enemies of tobacco.Smoking or other use of tobacco is banned in their homes and even in thevillage street it is advisable to avoid smoking if one would not incurtheir displeasure. It is reliably reported, however, that, in spite oftheir animosity toward tobacco, these people, whose principal occupationis tending the vine, do not frown upon the fermented juice of the grape. In the village are abandoned adobe houses,tumbling in ruins, for they are not needed, now that the population isdwindling. The principal street is little traveled, except by those afootor on horseback. A clucking hen and a dozen chicks strolled nonchalantlyacross the thoroughfare, and an automobile came to a stop in order to avoidstriking a group of ducklings unaware of the sudden danger. The Russian language is in general use amongthe colonists in conversing among themselves, but most of them also speakSpanish. The Mexican government operates the public school at Guadalupeand the children are required to attend. The school is conducted entirelyin Spanish. In order that the children also may learn Russian, they aretaught that language m their homes. Although the colony was founded almost a half-centuryago, many customs and traditions of the old country are preserved in thispeace-loving settlement. Notes From The Publisher.To my surprise, this article has had numerousinquieries from all over the world of family members interested in seekinglost relatives, both in México and in Russia. I have recieved e-mailfrom Russia, México, USA, Israel and Australia from people seekingmore information on these people, to the point that I have started to recordpeople's e-mail addresses so that they may correspond. If you are interested,please e-mail to the institute. Also, the history of the "Molokans" isarchived in a book that is for sale at the Museo Comunitario del Vallede Guadalupe, Calle Principal # 276, Valle de Guadalupe, BC México22750. The telephone Number is (as dialed from the USA) 011-526-155-2030,and the curator's name is Francisca Samarin. Any other comments pleasesend them to her or to this institute.MolokansHome PageBack to FolkloricoHome PageCopyright © 1996 by Instituto Cultural "RaicesMexicanas" & David Rojas- All Rights Reserved. These pages may notbe used for financial gain, commercial collections or compilations withoutexpress permission from the author. For information contact David Rojas(805) 683-3036 or e-mail david@rojas.com |
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